"When Knowledge and Experience Matters"
Bathroom Ventilation Ducts and Fans
Bathroom Ventilation Ducts and Fans...
- Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch.
- A timer switch may be mounted on the wall.
- A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity
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Bathroom ventilation fans should be inspected for dust buildup that can impede airflow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Inspectors should comment on dirty fan covers.
The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation:
- moisture stains on walls or ceilings.
- corrosion of metal.
- visible mold on walls or ceilings.
- peeling paint or wallpaper.
- frost on windows.
- high levels of humidity.
- mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot.
- beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed.
- beneath attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home exterior, not just beneath it.
Mold is impossible to identify visually and must be tested by a lab in order to be confidently labeled. Inspectors should refrain from calling anything “mold” but should refer to anything that appears as mold as a material that “appears to be microbial growth.” Inspectors should include in their report, and in the inspection agreement signed by the client, a disclaimer clearly stating that the General Home Inspection is an inspection for safety and system defects, not a mold inspection.
Decay, which is rot, is also caused by fungi. Incipient (early) decay cannot be seen. By the time decay becomes visible, wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength.
In order to grow, mold fungi require that the following conditions are present:
- oxygen;
- temperatures between approximately 45° F and 85° F;
- food. This includes a wider variety of materials found in homes; and
- moisture.
Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the living areas of a residence by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment.

- terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope.
- contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry.
- be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder.
- be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts will encourage condensation.
- protrude at least several inches from the roof.
- be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements.
- be installed to manufacturer's recommendations.
- be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop.
- have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.
Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors into the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues.

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